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Paris Guide: le Dixième

While Le Marais and Saint-Germain-des-Près remain top tourist spots in Paris for good reason, I’ve enjoyed exploring Paris’s 10th arrondissement on recent trips to France. I appreciate its grittier, younger, artsy vibe and of course, the opportunity to walk along the banks of the Canal-Saint-Martin (especially lovely in the summer).

Historically a working-class and international neighborhood and transportation hub, the neighborhood is home to families, artists, and young professionals alike. The two massive train stations - Gare de l’Est and Gare du Nord - and the Canal-Saint-Martin connect the quartier to other parts of Paris and Europe.

If you like vintage shopping, walks along the water, bakery and bar hopping, and would like to stay far away from tourists on the mainstream Rue Saint-Honoré doing their Christmas shopping, check out the 10th. Here’s how I spent a week there recently.

Your perfect day in the 10th starts with breakfast. My favorite for a pastry is Liberté on Rue des Vinaigriers. This boulangerie-pâtisserie has delicious classic pastries and sandwiches and a modern vibe. A little further east, you have Du Pain et Des Idées which also has great variety and some outdoor seating. Mamiche on rue du Château d’Eau usually has a line out the door, but everything is delicious. No seating here - keep it moving back to your amoureuse with those croissants.

For coffee, give Bonjour Jacob or Blondie a try. Bonjour Jacob is cool because it’s also a magazine shop. I’ve heard good things about their matcha, if that’s something you’re into. Blondie has great sandwiches as well, making it a good stop to grab a bite for lunch later.

After breakfast, it’s time to hit some shops. Rue de Marseille has your classic A.P.C., agnes b., the VEJA General Store, plus some independent shops including Patricia Blanchet - badass boots with a red stripe up the back, and Soeur. Guys, if you haven’t gotten your girlfriend, sister, mom a gift yet, an easy one would be this classic cotton scarf from Soeur that she can wear in every season. I bought this one and have worn it almost every day since. If you can’t swing a trip to Paris in time for Christmas, Sézane has similar options - and you can pop to either their Elizabeth Street or Wythe Avenue locations.

The next stop is technically in the 11th, but it’s one that Outpost readers should know about. Landline is a charming general store, owned by a French-Californian just across the canal. Landline specializes in quality items for your kitchen and home sourced from old school European brands. It also has fun odds and ends for kids and adults alike. It’s one of those stores where there’s plenty of affordable inventory amongst the big pots and silk scarves, so you can always leave with a little something. When I told the owner I was staying nearby, she was kind enough to give me a typewritten list of Landline’s local favorites in the 11th.

Landline - Paris 11

Hop back over to the other side of the canal and head to La Trésorerie. La Trésorerie is a home decor store on rue du Château d’Eau that I just know I’d visit on a weekly basis if I lived in Paris. Like Landline, it has plenty of simple staples you can fit in your carry-on like wooden spoons and crocheted market bags - but it also has some bigger ticket items like copper pots and pans, ceramics, linens, and serveware. Off to the side, there’s a room with soaps, fragrances, cosmetics bags and other giftable items. This time of year they have an impressive selection of hundreds of Christmas ornaments, too.

La Trésorerie will make you want to drop everything and focus on important things like having dinner parties

If you’re staying in a flat or somewhere you can make yourself at home a bit, pick up some flowers from Parisette, and some wine + fresh ingredients for dinner from Les Résistants Épicerie et Cave.

featuring seasonal vegetation for Noël
Les Résistants “The Americans tax it…the French drink it”

After a day of exploring, go for a laid back late lunch or dinner at La Marine, a classic French bistro right on the canal. Amazing French onion soupe. I walked past Chez Prune on my way back home, and it was popping - definitely on my list of places to try for a night out next time.

I’d stay away from Gare du Nord, but if you do find yourself around the train station, the Café Deux Gares (attached to the very Wes Anderson-esque Hotel les Deux Gares, designed by Luke Edward Hall) has a great croque monsieur that could be just what you need before you catch your train out of town.

Of course there’s lots more to do in the 10th, and the list of things to do when the weather’s warmer might be quite different (i.e. outdoor markets, picnics by the canal). If you decide to check out the 10th next time, give these spots a try and see what else you discover along the way. I’d love to hear if you’ve been to any of these or have your own favorites in the 10th - merci for reading. à la prochaine !

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