Few places stick with me the way Charleston does. I’m writing this in the wake of another installment of returning to the Lowcountry to jumpstart the always belated New England summer. While the Northeast thaws, Charleston in May offers just the right amount of haze and palmettos to force you to consider why you live where you live.
Enough people have waxed poetic about its charm—sure, the cobblestone streets and lazy piazzas with their haint blue ceilings form the post card—but, for me, its singularity has more to do with its contradiction. Walking King Street, you encounter an eclectic mix of passerby that range from the seersucker-clad Southerner to the sash-adorned weekend bachelorette. It’s a place that attracts both the discerning traveler and the New Jersey college transplant, where the frozen-drinks and karaoke of the Bangkok Lounge peacefully coexist with the neighborhood stillness of Michelin-stared Vern’s.
I often find myself wishing we had the same concept back home. Take Leon’s and Graft Wine Shop. I struggle to think of better ways to close out a week than in a reclaimed auto shop over frozen G&Ts (do yourself a favor and order the double), broiled oysters, and fried chicken or drinking a glass of perfectly chilled nebbiolo with a sidecar of pimento cheese.
Charleston also continues to surprise me in its attention to menswear. Between M. Dumas and Sons, Grady Ervin & Co, and Ben Silver’s, it’s one of the few places I’ve been that prioritizes men’s clothing beyond a corner in an otherwise women’s boutique. It almost feels Italian in its attention to sport coats that feel unexpectedly natural after a day out on Sullivan’s Island.
All of this is to say that if you haven’t been, or it’s been a while, it might be time to start looking at your calendar. By no means am I an expert, but I’d like to think I know a few things.
Where to eat
One of my favorite parts about Charleston dining is the way many of its restaurants make you feel as if you’ve been invited to an intimate party at someone’s home. It’s something that even the coziest of West Village restaurants can’t quite deliver at this scale.
Vern’s — At the risk of overselling it, this is the single best dining experience I’ve ever had. They’ve thought of everything, from sound tiling the ceiling to keep the noise level perfect to the chalk board specials that name their meat and fish suppliers.
If they have the Barnsley Chop with Red Wine & Truffle Jus, you’re in for a great night. The beverage program is as interesting as the food menu. Trust a restaurant that serves Etna wines. Set a calendar reminder for 30 days out—you’ll need it.
For a behind the scenes look, Para Llevar, a CA-based magazine covering the restaurant industry, did an outstanding issue on Vern’s. They describe the restaurant as, “a place you go to with intention, for friends and good food and all the better when it’s all in one place.” Enough said.
Chez Nous — One of the few places where it’s a toss-up between whether to sit outside on their candlelit patio or inside in the charming historic property. You really can’t go wrong.
They hand write the menu each day with two appetizers, two entrees, and two desserts. The menu is in the owner’s beautiful script and has a heavy French/Italian influence. In a world of too many choices, I find A or B a welcomed departure. Another strong wine list.
Leon’s Oyster Bar — The tried and true—perfect for any occasion. At first glance it’s a simple menu but the more you dig in the more you appreciate its curation. The only place in the world where I’ve seen a frozen G&T (do yourself a favor and get the double, you’ll want it).
Broiled oysters are a must, as are the hush puppies. For some reason, the fried chicken is much better than the sandwich (even our waitress agreed). And when in doubt, lean towards the dark meat. The scalloped potatoes are the best side.
They don’t take reservations, so throw your name in and be patient. As much as I love it for dinner, it might be an even better lunch spot. Be sure to pay with Blackbird, especially if you’re in town from NYC.
Cocktail hour
Let’s preface this by saying there’s enough truth in the Peter Pan Syndrome talk to earn its reputation. For those unfamiliar, look up season one of Bravo’s Southern Charm. Beyond the typical haunts, here’s three places to consider adding to your itinerary.
Graft Wine Bar — When it comes to Graft, I truly have no notes. It’s the kind of place that every city needs to have. Great wine in a laid back environment with excellent snacks. It doesn’t matter if you know nothing about wine or consider yourself an armchair expert, they’ll take care of you and make sure you get something that makes you excited.
And if you don’t want wine, they also have beer, cider, and NA options as well. Owners Femi and Miles really know what they’re doing. Expect to find things you don’t normally see and trust that you’re in the right hands.
Conveniently, it’s located right next door to Leon’s, which makes it the perfect place to pass time while you’re on the waitlist. It’s also the place to stock up on some bottles to bring back and enjoy wherever you’re staying.
Bar 167 — For me, this is the place to go for pre-dinner drinks downtown. An elevated coastal atmosphere that isn’t fussy. Great bar program that leans into an extensive wine list and mezcal/tequila paired with some of the best oysters and shrimp around. Need I say less.
Swing through before a dinner reservation or use it as a place to grab a light meal before going out on the town. I prefer the indoor tables that allow you to escape the heat and have a stronger sense of atmosphere.
The name might sound familiar from 167 Raw (it’s sister restaurant next door) and the Nantucket outpost in the summer. Unlike 167 Raw, they do take reservations.
Henry’s on the Market — In a city whose late night scene can feel like a frat party, Henry’s feels like a welcomed departure. I’m always a fan of a bar that creates a range of spaces within it. There’s something for everyone here. Across multiple floors it has a restaurant, music hall, whiskey lounge, and roof deck.
I lean towards drinking here and not eating, but they do have decent takes on classic Southern fare. Check out the rooftop for happy hour views of the city and transition inside to the lounge for music once the sun goes down.
They have a rotating live music schedule, so take a look at who’s on when you’re there. For the history buffs, it’s also the oldest continuously operating restaurant, established in 1932.
Best beaches
No trip to the Lowcountry is complete without getting on to the beach. The Charleston area has a wide range of beaches depending on what you’re after.
Sullivan’s Island — For me, this is the best beach when you’re staying downtown. However, don’t even think about trying to drive there. The traffic getting on and off the island is terrible and there’s little to no parking.
Call an Uber to Sullivan’s Fish Camp where there’s a very convenient public access point. You can choose from the Fish Camp, Obstinate Daughter (make reservations; pizza/Italian), or the Co-Op (sandwiches/frozé) for a to-go lunch or post-beach meal.
All are strong options. The beach is just a beach (which I prefer). There’s no snack shacks or boardwalk.
Folly — The second most common option from town. Parking is slightly better, but you’ll want to make an effort to get there early or Uber as well. Unlike Sullivan’s, Folly has a lot more beach bars, shops, and restaurants.
It leans a little younger and has the surfing scene. If you want to be at a bar, sipping a frozen pina colada, then this is probably more your speed. None of the food stands out.
Kiawah — Beautiful and unique, with a few caveats. Kiawah Island Golf Resort is about 45 minutes from downtown and is a private island. That said, you can access the island to golf, dine, or by biking on (which I would highly recommend). Beach-wise you have pristine sand with plenty of real estate.
This is by far the best golf in the area with five-courses (the most famous being the Ocean Course, host of the PGA Championship), but it comes with a steep price tag. They also have really nice tennis facilities.
Just before you get on the island, Freshfields village has shops and restaurants that are worth stopping in for.
Places to shop
I feel like Charleston gets a bad reputation for looking like a Vineyard Vines and Lily Pulitzer ad. While yes, there’s an inclination towards pastels that you don’t get in NYC, I think you’d be surprised by what exists.
M. Dumas & Sons — If you’re only going to one place, it should be Dumas. Open since 1917, their inventory runs the full range from sportswear to the office and formal events. They stock heavy-hitters like Barbour, Canali, and Alden, with a healthy dose of needlepoint and alligator leather. Talk to the staff—they’re happy to help with measurements and tailoring.
Grady Ervin & Co — The sign on the door says it all: “Classic Clothiers to Gentlemen.” Close by Dumas with equally helpful staff. A mix of ready-to-wear and custom tailoring. They have a very nice selection of sports jackets, as well as more casual offerings from Sid Mashburn and Peter Millar. I always trust a store that stocks Sid. Ask about the hand crafted buckles.
Ben Silver — Worth checking out if you’re in the market for accessories. They have great neckties, cufflinks, and leather goods, as well as their own custom label. Feels English. Also check out the sunglasses, bench made shoes, and exclusive watches from Ole Mathiesen.
Honorable mention: Smithey Ironware sells bulletproof made in SC cast iron cookware.
In closing
The problem with Charleston is the list always keeps growing. My personal bucket list still includes: Chubby Fish (maybe the most talked about place in town), Lost Isle (open fire cooking on James Island), and Malagon (Spanish from the Chez Nouz team).
As a passing note, I’ll leave you with a few Charleston commandments:
Wander aimlessly south of Broad
Skip out on the carriage ride
Book your reservations 30 days out (mostly Resy)
Get your hands on some grits (Marsh Hen Mill or Ansen Mills)
Bring home the tonic syrup from Leon’s (Jack Ruby Cocktail Co.)
Find the fried chicken ice cream (now at Yankee stadium…)
When in doubt, find a Cook Out (quite possibly the best fast food)
